Thursday, December 26, 2013

Putting the Geek back in GreaseMonkeyGeek!

   I realize that I haven't posted a lot of GEEK stuff here... technically I haven't posted any at all. So I will now regale you with the process of my first effort into painting Dwarven Forge Dungeon Tiles from their recent KickStarter. I opted for the unpainted ones (2 sets plus some add-ons) and am happy I did so.

   This first picture is the original color that they come in straight from the molds. It is sort of a chocolate brown and has a slick sheen to it. You could in theory leave the tiles as is with just this coloring, but they are pretty plain and lack pop.

   Using the tutorial provided by the DF guys on their website, I attempted to paint up my first handful of tiles using the main L-shape floor/wall sections and a couple of corner sections. The basic process is as follows. First you take the gray base and do a mostly dry brush light coat. The idea is to cover most of the tile but not to fill in all the little details. I found that as I went along, I would actually fill in more in some areas on one then less in that same area on the next one. This gave each piece a little more uniqueness as I went on to later steps. Initially, this was just me using too much paint at first and then less as the brush dried some, but I liked how it came out and kept doing it.

    The next step is to do the detailing on a small number of stones to add a little more color and variety to the tiles. This is done with an earth tone lighter brown that you can see in the pictures. You only need to do a couple of these per wall section and on some I did only two or three total. This was also an area that you can create variety by how many and where you place these highlight stones.

   The third step is to dry brush on a olive sand color. This is done with a very dry brush and several times I had to rub down the tiles using a paper towel because I had used too much even after I was sure I wiped enough off. When in doubt, wipe more off. In the end though, it was pretty easy to get the hang of and again I added more to some places and less to others for subtle highlights. But BE CAREFUL!!! It is easy to over apply.

   The final step is to dry brush on the light color final highlight coat. The color they sell is Stone Edge and is almost white with a hint of sand/eggshell. It gives the tile the stone look you want at the very end and that you can see in the pictures. This is a SUPER dry brush technique. As in even more so than the olive sand. I'm talking you are taking almost every last bit of color off the brush before you lightly dust the tile. You will see it as you start, so I suggest starting on the sides since those get placed next to each other and the brighter layer wont show as much. You can also simply repaint it. But it's always better to try to fix it when possible. So yeah... SUPER DRY brush, VERY LIGHT dusting and you will bring out a lot of details.

   Once you get the hang of it on a couple of tiles, you can move on to what I did... assembly line!!! The first picture, you can see I have done the basic gray coat (left most tiles) and started adding in the highlight brown stones(right most of the tile rows). You can also see the contrast of a finished tile on the far right (L-shape) and the one just above it (corner tile) where there is the first three steps, but the final dry brush has not been applied. 

   Here you can see the assembly line waiting for the tiles to dry so I can move on to the next batch.

   I wanted to add in some very different tiles for times when I wanted either a smaller room totally different, or to add a slight change to an existing gray base room. Instead of starting with the gray stone base, I used the Earth stone color as the base. Then I used the base gray to highlight stones and then did step 3 and 4 as normal. This created a desert-esque color that I really liked. If I were to buy another set of these, I would probably go ahead and do at least half of them up in this other color option. I think it really adds to the possible options.



   I have several free standing wall sections to do along with some special features like trap doors and gates. As well as dungeon dress-up stuff like barrels and beds and treasure chests. Since I have not picked up any other paints besides the four I got with the KickStarter, I am pretty limited with my color options. Between this and the Reaper KickStarter, I have a lot of fun stuff to look forward to painting and hopefully using soon in some games. I will post those reports up as I get them done as well as an update to this one when I get around to painting up the rest of the DF Dungeon tiles and accessories.

   So there you go... a little more Geek to compensate for all the GreaseMonkey.

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

Project BAMSFH™ - Part 7

Project BAMSFH™ The light at the end of the tunnel... a.k.a The Home Stretch... a.k.a. Dear gods I hope that isn't a train.

I was able to get some stuff done on the Project BAMSFH this weekend making this the final week of major things, as long as everything goes well. But of course it can never be that easy and I'm still smacking myself... and of course reminding myself that this was my first motorcycle carb rebuild as well as my first 4-carb rebuild. 

Now on to the story...

This weekend I was able to get a lot of the crud out of the radiator, but not all of it. I tried vinegar soaking and even CLR/Lime-a-way and while helping, it did not get most of the visible buildup. There is solid flow through the radiator from inlet to outlet, so it seems like it is mostly external scaling. I decided it was good enough for now and flushed it several more times to make sure I wouldn't missing some big chunks that could later on find their way into the engine. I plan to run some Prestone Radiator Flush once it is running in hopes of getting the rest out .

I was also able to get the hoses replaced on the petcock -> filter -> pump setup and using my battery I manually ran it initially with water, to make sure it even worked and then again with SeaFoam infused gas. The idea there being to not only remove any gas varnish in the system, but also flush out any chunks. The pump ran well and seemed to have good pressure, so that is a huge plus.

Having finished the last of the big tasks, I was ready to start putting things back together. This includes finally reconnecting all the water, air, and fuel lines (I ended up leaving the fuel line disconnected for now so I can test the flow from the pump through the whole system) and started to put the air box back on. It came out with a little finagling, but for the life of me I could not get it to go back in. After about 10 minutes of pushing and shoving and angling and swearing, I noticed that the two bolts that hold the air cleaner to the carb plenum didn't look like they would line up even after I got the air box on.

"Huh..." Says I as I start to turn and spin things and finally go to grab the iPad with the copy of the service manual on it. I noticed at once what my problem was. If you guessed that I put the carb plenum on backwards... you win a prize!!

Having no intention of removing the entire carb assembly, I decided to try to remove just the plenum. It came off easy and at first went on easy once I nudged the carbs into slightly different angles. I went slowly and finally got it lined up right and tightened down. Then I realized I pushed one of the air tubes going into the plenum wrong and it pulled the o-ring/gasket in with it. Off goes the plenum again, I fix tube and gasket, and back on again... wiggle wiggle line up the carbs. YAY! Back on and tightened.

I get about halfway through tightening down the airbox when I look over and see the little brass cover that goes over the air tubes inside the plenum. Expletives deleted for the sake of the children. Back off goes all the panels and bits that I need to remove to get the airbox back out. Finally, after several hours longer than it should have taken, I have everything back on the bike except for the main tank.

This week I should get the last of the parts I need and if all goes well, I will be firing up the beast this weekend. I still need to do one more flush of the main tank and reattach it, drill out the sheared off caliper bolt and put in the new one, run some lube into the cables, and check the chain tension. I'm sure I have a few more little things to do, but I'm getting close.

Fingers crossed this thing will be alive by next week!